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Corporate Responsibility Update nr. 3, 2024

Dear reader.

Starting from now, we will not only inform you in this newsletter on Corporate Responsibility developments but also keep you posted on circularity issues. This means that there will no longer be a separate Circularity update, as everything has been integrated into this monthly Corporate Responsibility update.

Did you miss any of the past editions of this newsletter? Visit our website through this link to stay up to date with the latest Corporate Responsibility developments. 

 

Companies

  • H&M is trying to become more sustainable 
  • Most sustainable textile dyeing factory in Hoofddorp 
  • The Better Stuff - Because they'll grow out of it in no time: four Dutch brands that make sustainable clothing for the little ones 
  • ByBorre gaat afgedankte kleding verkopen 

Certification/Legislation

  • EU Parliament Agrees to Ban Unverified Green Product Claims 
  • Clean Clothes Campaign Turkey calls for stronger potassium permanganate regulations 
  • French House of Commons approves law against fast fashion 

Sustainability

  • Ecobalyse, the future ecoscore that will display the environmental impact of clothing from 2025
  • Major Fashion Brands and Retailers Face Growing Water-Related Risks, says Planet Tracker Report
  • Responsible Contracting Project publishes Investor Guidance 
  • Xinjiang cotton industry thrives despite pressures from us and allies: liang yong, member, cppcc 
  • The Code for More Transparency 
  • Verduurzaming in de mode-industrie: 12 inspanningen van februari  & maart 2024
  • CSRD sustainability report challenges for companies in uncertain 2024 

Circular

  • France push for eu ban on used clothes exports, a complex issue with no easy answer
  • Circular textile project ends, reveals lessons 


Companies
H&M is trying to become more sustainable 
The international fashion group H&M is tackling its environmental impact. That can inspire the entire sector. H&M is partnering with private equity groups TPG and Vargas to curb CO2 emissions from its fast fashion. Together, they are pumping about $60 million into Swedish start-up Syre to build a plant in North Carolina to reduce CO2 emissions from polyester processing by 85 percent, writes the Belgian opinion magazine Trends. Read more (in Dutch).

Most sustainable textile dyeing factory in Hoofddorp 
The most sustainable factory in Europe for colouring and processing textiles will soon open in Hoofddorp: Circotex. The international textile industry is committing an attack on nature, especially through the dyeing process that guzzles water, energy and chemicals, writes Meer Radio. Read more (article is in Dutch).

The Better Stuff - Because they'll grow out of it in no time: four Dutch brands that make sustainable clothing for the little ones 
For growing children, you keep buying clothes. These four Dutch brands make fashion for a better world and its youngest inhabitants, writes Dutch newspaper De Volkskrant. Read more (notice you may need a login to read the complete article or read the summary below).

  • Circular shopping: Gray Label
  • Discarded and beautifully returned: Little Boomerang
  • From shirt to romper: Studio Happy Days
  • Durable baby carrier: Nimbel

Summary
Four Dutch brands are focusing on sustainable clothing for children, with four circular stores opening in Amsterdam. Gray Label, founded by Emily Gray, is a successful kinder label that offers comfortable, sustainable clothing for children aged 0 to 12 years. The store also sells a collection of t-shirts and accessories made from recycled materials, such as Levi's sneakers and sneakers. The store also has an archief with t-shirt items in recycled colors. The Little Boomerang label, created by designer Marlies Touw, aims to inspire people to value the materials they use. The collection consists of a series of classic pieces in bright and dark colors for children aged 0 to 6 years old.

The label, a collaboration with Het GildeLab, focuses on local and social production, with all items made by women with a foothold in the labor market. The collection includes a pop-up shop and a pop-up tour. The label also offers a range of products, including clothing, accessories, and accessories for babies to 7-year-olds. The collection is designed with recycled materials, ensuring the brand's principles remain intact. In September, the brand introduced a new product called Nimbel, which is not only a comfortable drager but also a sustainable alternative for the best-adventure area. The product is circulable, allowing all components to be reused or recycled. The collection is available online and in stores. Babydragers are made from recycled materials, suitable for babies aged 2-5 years, and offer free delivery, return, and a three-color color option for € 379.

ByBorre gaat afgedankte kleding verkopen 
Textielinnovatiebedrijf ByBorre lanceert binnenkort een project genaamd Mission:Failed, waar afgedankte kleding nieuw leven krijgt. Dit laat oprichter Borre Akkersdijk weten in een persbericht. Lees meer>>

Certification/Legislation
EU Parliament Agrees to Ban Unverified Green Product Claims 
Lawmakers in the European Parliament voted 467-65 to approve a series of rules aimed at protecting consumers from greenwashing, or misleading environmental claims by companies, including requiring companies to submit product marketing claims such as “biodegradable” or “less polluting” for verification before being allowed to use them. The vote establishes Parliament’s adopted position on the European Commission’s proposed “Directive on Green Claims.” The Commission introduced the directive in March 2023, aimed at addressing a need for reliable and verifiable information for consumers, in light of a recent study by finding that more than half of green claims by companies in the EU were vague or misleading, and 40% were completely unsubstantiated, reports ESG. Read more>>

Clean Clothes Campaign Turkey calls for stronger potassium permanganate regulations 
Potassium permanganate bleaching, commonly known as PP spray in the denim industry, and the harmful effects it has on worker health and the environment are the focus of a new report by Clean Clothes Campaign Turkey (CCC Turkey), reports Sourcing Journal. Read more (notice you may need a login to read the complete article or read the summary below). 

Summary
A report by the Center for Clean Air and Water (CCC Turkey) has found that PP spray, introduced in Turkey after the 2009 ban on denim sandblasting, is harmful and unregulated. The report argues that despite alternatives like ozone and laser technology, many brands continue to use PP spray for vintage-inspired washes. The report also highlights the environmental impact of PP spray, including damage to sea life and wastewater. The CCC Turkey examined 44 brands that bleach jeans in Turkey, including 12 that are committed to the Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) of the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC). The report recommends brands to improve supply chain transparency, develop policies regarding chemical usage, and reduce PP use immediately, as environmental damage and occupational diseases develop over time.

French House of Commons approves law against fast fashion 
France's National Assembly has given the green light to the anti-fast fashion plans of MP Antoine Vermorel Marques and the Horizons Group. Namely: an advertising ban and environmental tax on cheap clothing, writes FashionUnited. Read more (article is in Dutch).

Sustainability
Ecobalyse, the future ecoscore that will display the environmental impact of clothing from 2025
Water consumption, the physical durability of textiles, the use of pesticides and chemicals, microplastic discharges and the impact of fast fashion (volumes and rotation of collections) will be taken into account. Water consumption, the physical durability of textiles, the use of pesticides and chemicals, microplastic discharges and the impact of fast fashion (volumes and rotation of collections) will be taken into account. 
The government will specify this Wednesday the calculation method and the timetable for the launch of this label, which should see the light of day on French shelves in the first quarter of 2025 on the clothes of voluntary brands.

After food, clothes will also have their ecoscore. This display, designed to raise awareness of the ecological impact of purchasing, will be put on track this week after several delays with the presentation of a first calculation simulator. Called "Ecobalyse", this tool developed in partnership with ADEME "will allow companies and professionals in the sector to easily obtain the environmental cost of their product free of charge, but also citizens to consult the environmental impacts of the clothes they buy," the government said in a statement.

The calculation method and timetable for the launch of this textile ecoscore are expected to be specified by the government on Wednesday. A French initiative, this new labelling is intended to "enrich" the European project for harmonised environmental labelling for textiles with the aim of helping companies in the Member States to calculate it. In France, 3.3 billion pieces of clothing, shoes and household linen were put on the market in 2022, compared to 2.8 in 2021. Professionals, NGOs and civil society are calling for regulation of the sector. In 2023, the Ministry of Ecological Transition indicated on its website that the textile industry generated "more greenhouse gases than international flights and maritime traffic combined, and consumes 4% of the world's drinking water". By 2050, it will account for 26% of greenhouse gases, if consumption and production trends remain similar.

A calculation that is still mysterious
This "clothing planet-score" will take the form of a display in points. These will be awarded according to different criteria: water consumption, the physical durability of textiles, the use of pesticides and chemicals, microplastic emissions and the impact of fast fashion (volumes and rotation of collections).
The question will be which criterion(s) will prevail in the calculation method. From an environmental point of view, which of an acrylic T-shirt (derived from petroleum) produced in China or a wool sweater made in France by consuming a lot of water will get the best score? Professionals in the sector are divided, and even before it is implemented, environmental labelling is already being debated. After several experiments in 2022, it was originally supposed to be mandatory this year. In the end, it should only be "voluntary" and really implemented in the first half of 2025 at best. Click here to read the original article in French.
https://www.lefigaro.fr/conso/ecobalyse-ce-futur-ecoscore-qui-affichera-l-impact-environnemental-des-vetements-a-partir-de-2025-20240402

Major Fashion Brands and Retailers Face Growing Water-Related Risks, says Planet Tracker Report
Planet Tracker has released a groundbreaking report uncovering the significant water-related risks faced by major fashion brands and retailers, including Adidas (ADS.GR), Gap (GPS.US), H&M , Inditex , Levi Strauss, Nike, PVH Corp, Ralph Lauren and VF Corp. Lees meer>>

Responsible Contracting Project publishes Investor Guidance 
Developed by RCP and the Interfaith Center on Corporate Responsibility (ICCR), the Investor Guidance on Responsible Contracting equips investors to engage their portfolio companies on how they integrate human rights and environmental due diligence (HREDD) into their commercial contracts. The Guidance provides an overview of key concepts to explain the critical role that due diligence-aligned contracts play in promoting better HREDD, better HRE outcomes, and better legal compliance. It includes the following tools (downloadable at the bottom of this page) for carrying out company engagement:

  • Sample questions that investors can use in their dialogues with companies
  • A template shareholder resolution
  • A template investor engagement letter
  • Sample responses to frequent pushback (“FPBs”) from companies. 

These tools can help investors assess whether companies are using their international supply con-tracts in a way that supports—or undermines—effective HREDD processes. Read more>>

Xinjiang cotton industry thrives despite pressures from us and allies: liang yong, member, cppcc 
Despite relentless pressure from the US and its Western allies since 2020, the Xinjiang's cotton industry continues to thrive, says Liang Yong, Member, CPPCC and Director, Xinjiang Cotton Industry Development Leadership Office. Highlighting the industry's sound development and rising competitiveness, writes FashionatingWorld. Read more>>

The Code for More Transparency 
Sustainability communication could be as simple as this: with an automated integration of information from the seal providers into the webshop. And to the POS. A project for the future that incidentally shows what consumers really want. You can't do it alone anyway, says Stephanie Hansen. Joint solutions are the order of the day for the Senior Manager Sustainability at Breuninger. That's why she didn't think twice when the request came from the Fraunhofer Institute for a project funded by the German Federal Ministry for the Environment together with ConPolicy and the German Research Center for Artificial Intelligence, reports German Trade magazine textilWirtschaft. Read more>>



Verduurzaming in de mode-industrie: 12 inspanningen van februari 2024
Maandelijks selecteert FashionUnited een aantal verduurzamingsinspanningen uit de mode-industrie. Vandaag 12 noemenswaardigheden uit februari 2024 in binnen- en buitenland. Lees hier meer over die van februari en hier over maart.

CSRD sustainability report challenges for companies in uncertain 2024 
From 2024, large companies will have to deal with additional requirements in terms of sustainability reporting. They will be requesting information from the value chain, but small and medium-sized enterprises, which are part of that value chain, are hardly familiar with the directive. Many companies see the new directive as extra administrative work that comes at an inopportune time in times of a weak economy, writes Dutch Bank ABN AMRO. Read the report here in Dutch.

Circular
France push for eu ban on used clothes exports, a complex issue with no easy answer 
The fashion industry is a major contributor to textile waste, with Europe alone generating 5.2 million tons annually. France is proposing a ban on EU exports of used clothing, aiming to curb this waste and prevent African nations from becoming dumping grounds for unwanted garments. This proposal has sparked a debate, raising questions about its effectiveness, potential consequences, and alternative solutions, writes FashionatingWorld. Read more>>

Circular textile project ends, reveals lessons 
The European Union (EU) funded New Cotton Project has come to a close after three-and-a-half years claiming to have gained key insights into how best to achieve the transition to a circular textiles industry, writes Eco-Textile News.The consortium behind the project, led by Finnish textile innovator Infinited Fiber Company, says it has assessed the challenges and opportunities for scaling fibre-to-fibre recycling within the EU.Also involving brands Adidas and H&M, as well as textile collectors, sorters and manufacturers, the project ended with the hosting of a policy roundtable with EU legislators, as well as a public-facing seminar and webinar.Academic partner Aalto University produced a white paper, ‘Driving the Transition Toward Circular Textiles', while Swedish research institute RISE developed an environmental lifecycle analysis (LCA) study analysing the entire value chain.During the project, members of the consortium worked to collect and sort end-of-life textile waste for Infinited Fibre to turn into its Infinna recycled cellulosic fibre which is claimed to have the look and feel of cotton.

This fibre was then spun into yarns and manufactured into different types of fabric for leading brands. They were used to create garments including an Adidas x Stella McCartney tracksuit and an H&M printed jacket and jeans.As the project - funded by the EU's Horizon 2020 research and innovation programme - came to a close, the consortium highlighted eight key factors they have identified as fundamental to the scaling of fibre-to-fibre recycling:

  • The wide scale adoption of circular value chains is critical - textile circularity requires new forms of collaboration and open knowledge exchange among different actors in circular eco-systems. These ecosystems must involve actors beyond traditional supply chains and pre-viously disconnected industries and sectors.
  • Circularity starts with the design process - when creating new styles, it is important to keep an end-of-life scenario in mind right from the beginning. If designers make it as easy as possible for the recycling process, it has the bigger chance to actually be feedstock again.
  • Building and scaling sorting and recycling infrastructure is critical - currently, much textiles sorting is done manually, and the available optical sorting and identification technologies are not able to identify garment layers or complex fibre blends.
  • Improving quality and availability of data is essential - a significant lack of available data to support the shift towards a circular textiles industry is slowing down development of system level solutions and economic incentives for textile circulation.
  • The need for continuous R&D across the entire value chain - the New Cotton Project’s find-ings suggest that fabrics incorporating Infinna fibre offer a more sustainable alternative.
  • However, the scaling of fibre-to-fibre recycling will continue to require ongoing research and development across the entire value chain.
  • Thinking beyond lower impact fibres - the New Cotton Project's LCA reveals that Infinna shows potential to lower environmental impacts compared to conventional cotton and vis-cose. But other factors, such as garment quality and durability, are crucial for mitigating en-vironmental impacts per garment use.
  • Citizen engagement - the EU has identified culture as one of the key barriers to the adoption of the circular economy within Europe. An Adidas consumer survey revealed that there is still confusion around circularity in textiles, highlighting the importance of effective communica-tion.
  • Cohesive legislation - considering the link between different pieces of legislation, such as Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) and the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regu-lation (ESPR), along with their corresponding timeline for implementation, will help stake-holders prepare effectively for these new regulations.

"Overall, the learnings spotlight the need for a holistic approach and a fundamental mindset shift in ways of working for the textiles industry," said the New Cotton Project consortium in a statement. "Deeper collaboration and knowledge exchange is central to developing effective circular value chains, helping to support the scaling of innovative recycling technologies and increase availability of recycled fibres on the market."The further development and scaling of collecting and sorting, along with the need to address substantial gaps in the availability of quality textile flow data should be urgently prioritised."Earlier this month, Infinited Fiber Company raised €40 million in a new funding round, which included investment from several leading brands and retailers including Inditex, Fast Retailing, Adidas, PVH Europe, H&M and Bestseller.
 

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