Newsletter Buying & Production nr. 6, 24
Event
EPR
- Eco-modulation bonuses
- New EPR for Industrial and Commercial Packaging – France
- France: Ban on polystyrene packaging postponed
- Why global EPR policy is circular fashion’s next frontier
- EU urged to target ultra fast fashion on EPR
- Leaked EU Proposal Targets Ultra-Fast Fashion
- EU Waste framework directive: Council set to start talks on its revision
- EU PPWR Four key facts about the EU packaging regulations
Safety & Compliance
- EU GPSR and products on stock as of 13 th of december 2024
- GPSR EU Guidance update
- EU REACH – Commission Adopts EU-wide Restriction on Cyclosiloxanes (D4,D5,D6)
- China mandatory standard gb 25038-2024 general safety requirements for footwear published
- China mandatory standard gb 30585-2024 safety technical specifications for infants’ and children’s footwear published
- China product standard gb/t 21295-2024 requirements of physical and chemical performance of garments publishedChina two mandatory standards for footwear in China recently released
- USA New York Fashion Act backers to fight on
- USA CPSC publishes efiling quick start guide
- Israel: Standards Law, 5713-1953 – Proposed Amendment – (on new import route based on compliance with EU regulations) Bill, April 2024
- Flammability Update July 2024
Corporate Responsability
- Do you want to make the sector more sustainable together and comply with the competition rules? ACM is thinking along with you.
- Canada’s New Greenwashing Law Will Impact U.S. Companies’ Climate Marketing
Sourcing
- European textile and clothing exports continue to slow down
- Parisian textile fair Première Vision sighs under Chinese influence
Quality & Sizing
- True Fit leverages generative AI to help online shoppers find clothes that fit
EPR
Eco-modulation bonuses
To further assist our members and support them in obtaining these eco-modulation bonuses, we have developed a test package in collaboration with Bureau Veritas. With this test package, our members can have the necessary tests performed at discounted rates. Read more
New EPR for Industrial and Commercial Packaging – France
On January 1, 2025, a new system of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) will come into force to reduce the environmental impact of industrial and commercial packaging (ICP). rums, cardboard, pallets, plastic crates, etc. With almost 18 million tonnes of packaging (vs. 5.5 million tonnes for household packaging), including almost 10 million tonnes of reusable packaging (pallets, wooden and plastic crates, and drums), this new EPR should cover packaging used to market products consumed or used by professionals, and which is not already covered by existing packaging EPRs. Read more
France: Ban on polystyrene packaging postponed until 2030
The French government has officially announced that the ban on packaging made entirely or partially from styrene polymers or copolymers, which are not recyclable and cannot be integrated into a recycling stream, will be postponed from 2025 to 2030.
Below you will find the free translation of the statement by Ms. Dominique Faure, French Minister Delegate for Local Authorities and Rural Areas:
“The law to combat climate change aims to reduce the environmental impact of polystyrene packaging and to bring it into the circular economy. This measure will enable France to meet its European recycling targets and thus reduce its contribution to the EU budget - €1.5 billion for this item in 2023.
The future EU regulation requires all packaging to be recyclable by 2030 and recycled on an industrial scale by 2035. I know that the industry has made efforts. However, these have not resulted in the recyclability of all this packaging being achieved by the date provided for in the law.
As the law and the directive have not yet entered into force, it seems reasonable to postpone the ban from 2025 to 2030 in order to avoid the risk of over-implementation and to give plastic resin projects time to succeed. It will be up to Parliament to amend Article L. 541-15-10 of the Environmental Code."
Advice from the experts in the Environmental Reporting & Compliance department of the AHK France
Why global EPR policy is circular fashion’s next frontier
A mandatory fee-based Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) policy that operates beyond country borders is now seen as critical for building a long-term circular fashion economy.Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s senior policy advisor says the new report explores the next frontier of EPR policies and highlights the huge potential which can be achieved by focusing on circular outcomes, such as repair and other circular business models, as well as circular product design, reports Just-style.com. Read more (notice you may need a login to read the complete article or read the summary below)
Summary
Textile Circularity: Funding and Global Objectives
- The report emphasizes the need for funding to cover the net cost of managing all discarded textiles, not just those with high market value.
- Over 80% of the world's textiles leak out of the system when discarded, due to the linear economic system.
- To address this, a separate collection infrastructure needs to be scaled up and implemented in locations where it currently does not exist.The collection infrastructure of textile waste is largely underdeveloped, with separate collection rates averaging at 14% and reaching a maximum of 50%.
- The Ellen MacArthur Foundation's senior policy officer, Valérie Boiten, believes a circular economy is the only solution to the global textile waste problem.
- The report suggests four key global objectives for textiles EPR:
- Increase collection volumes: Expand existing collection systems and create new ones to divert textiles from mixed waste streams.
- Increase reuse rates: Reuse textiles to the maximum extent before being recycled.
- Increase recycling rates: Sorted textiles should be recycled to keep their material value in the economy.
- Reduce waste volumes: The establishment of an EPR policy and the above three objectives should lead to the decreasing share of textiles entering final disposal over time.
Ellen MacArthur Foundation's Recommendations for Textile Waste Reduction
- The Ellen MacArthur Foundation suggests that policy alone cannot solve textile waste, as the regulatory process for EPR development can take years.
- Only three countries have adopted EPR policy for textiles: France, Hungary, and the Netherlands.
- Voluntary business actions, including the establishment of voluntary EPR schemes, could accelerate progress and create market demand for circular economy solutions.
- The report suggests coordinated and compounded industry action could capture the opportunity to reuse and recycle at scale.
- Investors are urged to recognize the opportunities as EPR policy can lead to multi-year contracts for collectors, sorters, and recyclers, and there is potential for economies of scale.
- A dual approach of ambitious, long-term policy change and accelerated voluntary industry action will push progress further and faster.
- Fashion brands and retailers are urged to design products in line with circular economy principles and ensure virgin materials used are sourced from renewable sources and produced through regenerative agricultural practices.
- The fashion sector is urged to focus on circular business models such as repair, rental, remake, and resale.
- Investing in shared infrastructure is needed to focus efforts and investments on recycling technologies for textiles and the adoption of design-for-recycling principles.
EU urged to target ultra fast fashion on EPR
Austria, Finland, France and the Netherlands are calling on the European Union (EU) to allow member states to penalise ultra fast fashion e-tailers, such as Shein and Temu, for the impacts of their products.The four countries have written a discussion paper ahead of a summit on 17th June when environment ministers are due to adopt their position on an upcoming revision to the EU's Waste Framework Directive (WFD), writes Eco-Textile News. Read more (notice you may need a login to read the complete article or read the summary below)
Summary
Four European countries are advocating for the EU to use the WFD revision and the proposed Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) to combat the commercial practice of ultra-fast fashion. The paper argues that ultra-fast fashion companies should pay a larger contribution to textile waste costs through the EPR scheme. The paper highlights the global increase in new items and the carbon impact of the textile industry, which is exacerbated by the marketing of low-priced products from frequently renewed collections. The authors call for member states to support the measure and require EPR fee modulation based on product durability and collection renewal frequency.
Leaked EU Proposal Targets Ultra-Fast Fashion
Even though ultra-fast fashion garments are typically not of the highest quality, they’re being thrown out after a few wears regardless of the shape they’re in, Zero Waste Europe has learned.The civil society organization received a leaked non-paper from European Union (EU) Member States addressing the impact of fast fashion, relevant to the upcoming Waste Framework Directive decision in the European Council occurring later this month, reports Sourcing Journal. Read more. (notice you may need a login to read the complete article or read the summary below)
Summary
- Low-Quality Disposals: Ultra-fast fashion garments are often discarded after a few wears, regardless of their condition.
- EU Leak: Zero Waste Europe received a leaked non-paper from EU Member States on fast fashion’s impact.
- Environmental Threat: Imported ultra-fast fashion products harm the environment and EU economies, hindering a circular textile industry.
- Circular Economy Goals: The EU must use upcoming textile regulations to combat ultra-fast fashion practices.
- Support from Nations: France, Finland, the Netherlands, and Austria support tackling fast fashion through Waste Framework Directive negotiations.
- Impulse Buying: Fast fashion encourages impulse buying and increased consumption, worsening textile waste.
- Rising Emissions: From 2000 to 2015, the textile market doubled, doubling carbon emissions; by 2050, it could emit 26% of all greenhouse gases.
- Directive Adjustments: Proposed adjustments include limits on product references and collection renewal frequency to distinguish traditional and fast fashion businesses.
- Polluter Pays: Financial contributions would be based on pollution levels, adhering to the polluter pays principle.
- Durability Impact: Fast fashion reduces product lifespan through cultural obsolescence.
- Broad Scope: EU already links financial contributions to product lifecycle, as seen in battery regulations, and plans to do the same for textiles.
- Urgent Call: Zero Waste Europe urges all member states to support these measures for a sustainable fashion industry.
EU Waste framework directive: Council set to start talks on its revision
The Council adopted its position (‘general approach’) on the targeted revision of the waste framework directive, with a focus on food and textile waste. Read morehttps://www.consilium.europa.eu/en/press/press-releases/2024/06/17/waste-framework-directive-council-set-to-start-talks-on-its-revision/?utm_source=brevo&utm_campaign=AUTOMATED%20-%20Alert%20-%20Newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_id=320
EU PPWR Four key facts about the EU packaging regulations (packreport.de) – TextilWirtschaft
It is now exactly one month ago that the European Parliament in Strasbourg approved the compromise text of the trilogue on the Packaging & Packaging Waste Regulation (PPWR). We have examined the accepted text in its entirety – and abstracted four important facts. Read more (in German)
Summary
European Parliament Approves Packaging & Packaging Waste Regulation (PPWR)
- The compromise text of the trilogue on the PPWR has been approved by the European Parliament in Strasbourg.
- The agreement includes targets for packaging reduction (5% by 2030, 10% by 2035, and 15% by 2040), based on the 2018 values.
- The proportion of empty space should not exceed 50% for outer packaging, transport packaging, and e-commerce packaging.
- Single-use plastic packaging will be banned from 1 January 2030, including unprocessed fresh fruit and vegetables, food and beverage packaging, single portions, small single-use plastic containers, and lightweight plastic carrier bags.
- By 2030, all EU packaging must be 100% recyclable and meet the criteria of "Design for Recycling".
- From 2035, a new factor will be added to assess the recyclability of packaging, namely "widely recycled".
EU Plastic Packaging Recyclate Targets for 2030 and 2040
- Core targets for minimum recyclate content in plastic packaging up to 35%.
- Exceptions for contact-sensitive plastic food packaging for infants and young children and food for special medical purposes.
- Commission to publish assessment of technological development and environmental performance of bio-based plastic packaging within three years.
- Minimum recycled content: 30% for contact-sensitive packaging with PET, 10% for contact-sensitive packaging made of other plastics, 30% for single-use plastic beverage bottles, and 35% for other plastic packaging.
Next Steps
- The PPWR has not yet entered into force, with final approval expected in autumn 2024.
- Member states will re-give final approval in the Council, and the PPWR will be published in the Official Journal of the EU.
Safety & Compliance
EU GPSR and products on stock as of 13 th of december 2024
MODINT advises its members that anything that is still in stock on 13 December can still be sold, on the grounds that once the goods are ready for sale in this way, they have already been placed on the market. If the goods are in stock, then they are already being offered, advertised, etc. somewhere.
We estimate the risk that the authorities will carry out direct checks to be low (and how would they know when a product was placed on the market?).
Nevertheless, manufacturers are now aware of their new obligations and should take action now to ensure that they comply with the law from 13 December. Especially when it comes to labelling or the design of the web shop, some lead time is necessary. And from a technical point of view, everything that is placed on the market after the deadline must fulfil the requirements.
GPSR EU Guidance update
Dutch ministry VWS has submitted the implementation legislation for stakeholder comments/reactions. The NVWA , Dutch market surveillance authority, has already emphasized at the Dutch ministry VWS the great importance of timely and thorough communication and information about the GPSR, if the GPSR is to be well received by the sectors and the supervision is therefore not to encounter sectors that are not familiar with what they must do. MODINT will keep pushing for a timely appearance of the announced EU guidance on GPSR legislation.
EU REACH – Commission Adopts EU-wide Restriction on Cyclosiloxanes (D4,D5,D6)
In January 2018, EU added restriction of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (‘D4’) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (‘D5’) in wash-off cosmetic products to Entry 70 Annex XVII of REACH regulations and the restriction have been effective on 31 January 2020. nd then, in June 2018, D4, D5 and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (‘D6’) were identified as substances of very high concern (‘SVHC’) with very persistent and very bioaccumulative (‘vPvB’) and persistent, bioaccumulative and toxic (‘PBT’) properties.
On 16 May 2024, the European Commission adopted a restriction on siloxanes D4, D5 and D6. This measure will protect our environment by reducing up to 90 % of the emissions of these very persistent and very bioaccumulative substances. The restriction will start applying after 6 June 2026. D4, D5, and D6 are used in various consumer and professional products, including cosmetics, dry cleaning, waxes and washing and cleaning products.
Scope of the restriction
D4, D5, and D6 shall not be placed on the market, as a substance on its own; as a constituent of other substances; or in mixtures; in a concentration equal to or greater than 0,1 % by weight of the respective substance after 6 June 2026. D4, D5, and D6 shall not be used as a solvent for the dry cleaning of textiles, leather and fur after 6 June 2026.
China mandatory standard GB 25038-2024 general safety requirements for footwear published
On May 28, 2024, 2 mandatory footwear standards were announced by China officials (See Bureau Veritas Bulletin 24B-055). Official versions of these standards were recently published. Read more
China mandatory standard GB 30585-2024 safety technical specifications for infants’ and children’s footwear published
On May 28, 2024, 2 mandatory footwear standards were announced by China officials (See Bureau Veritas Bulletin 24B-055). Official versions of these standards were recently published. Read more
China product standard GB/t 21295-2024 requirements of physical and chemical performance of garments published
GB/T 21295-2024 Requirements of Physical and Chemical Performance of Garments has been published. It is applicable to quality requirements of garments mainly made of woven fabrics, except cases when other China product standards have own requirements defined. It will be effective on October 1, 2024, replacing the 2014 edition. Download Bulletin PDF here to view major technical parameter changes, in comparison to GB/T 21295-2014.
China - two mandatory standards for footwear in China recently released
On May 28, 2024, the National Standard of the People's Republic of China, Announcement No. 10 of 2024 was issued, approving 6 mandatory national standards and 3 mandatory national standard revision. Among them, two mandatory standards in the field of footwear, General Safety Requirements for Footwear and Safety technical specifications for infants' and children's footwear have been officially released, and the implementation date is June 1, 2025. See below for details:
More information? Click here
GB 25038-2024 is applicable to footwear made of various materials. It is not applicable to protective shoes (boots) and children’s shoes for children of age 14 and under.
Requirements including but not limited to:
- The restrictions for sharp point and broken needle.
- The requirement for restrictive chemical substances Including Cr VI, banned azo dyes, formaldehyde, dimethyl fumarate, chlorophenols, and phthalates.
GB 30585-2024 is applicable to footwear made of various materials for children of age 14 or under.
Requirements including but not limited to:
- The requirements for broken needle, sharp point and sharp edge, technical heel height.
Compared with GB 30585-2014, remove the requirement for shank.
- The requirements for small accessories on the infant shoes.
o Compared with GB 30585-2014, modify the expression. - The requirement for restrictive chemical substances Including Cr VI, banned azo dyes, formaldehyde, total heavy metals, dimethyl fumarate, N-Nitrosamines, chlorophenols, phthalates and SCCP.
o Compared with GB 30585-2014, the requirement for Cr VI becomes more stringent; added banned azo dyes and formaldehyde requirements for synthetic leather; total lead content requirement becomes stricter, but the arsenic content will no longer be assessed; added requirement for chlorophenols; requirements for phthalates change by adding the restriction for DIBP; added requirements for SCCP.
USA New York Fashion Act backers to fight on
Supporters of the New York Fashion Act have vowed to continue their fight to introduce new legislation to hold the industry accountable for its environmental and human rights impacts.The Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act recently failed to make it onto the statute book for the third year running amidst push back from powerful trade groups such as the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA), reports Eco-Textile News. Read more (notice you may need a login to read the complete article or read the summary below)
Summary
New York Fashion Act: A Growing Support for Sustainable Fashion
- The New York Fashion Act requires brands with annual turnover of over $100 million in New York to address the environmental and human rights impacts of their global production.
- The bill gained approval from the New York State Assembly’s Ways and Means Committee but failed to pass before the end of the legislative session.
- The bill has gained support from independent, sustainability-focused fashion brands like Stella MacCartney and Patagonia, but has not received backing from global giants or key trade bodies.
- The bill's success is seen as a result of associations coming out and muddying the waters.
- Industry leaders express support for the New York Fashion Act, stating it is a step towards responsible industry practices.
- AAFA supports legislation that makes the industry more accountable for its impacts, as long as it is practical, effective, and workable.
- The New York Fashion Act will not compromise on sustainability due diligence, as seen in the European Union's Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive.
- The bill has separated environmental and worker-related parts, but this is purely procedural.
- Industry leaders advocate for more industry leadership to be part of the future and understand regulation can be beneficial.
- They believe that regulation can be a tool for industry growth and profitability.
Bluesign has a good explanation. Read more
USA CPSC publishes efiling quick start guide
The U.S. Consumer Products Safety Commission (CPSC) noted in their eFiling Quarterly Newsletter (Fiscal Year 2024 Quarter 3 | Volume Four) that a Quick Start Guide would be coming soon. The official eFiling Quick Start Guide was published on July 9 to the CPSC eFiling Document Library
The guide can be found here: eFiling_Quick_Start_Guide_FINAL. This new document provides an overview of eFiling (why, how, who, what,) along with roles and responsibilities, implementation best practices and CPSC support services. The guide also breaks down the implementation into three distinct stages. Each one includes a helpful task checklist to ensure importers are preparing now. Please be aware that this tool is now available and review it to make sure you are doing everything possible to be prepared for final ruling and implementation.
Israel: Standards Law, 5713-1953 – Proposed Amendment – (on new import route based on compliance with EU regulations) Bill, April 2024
On 1 April 2024, the Israeli Parliament updated the proposed amendments to the Standards Act so that goods that have been certified as compliant with the requirements of certain EU regulations may be imported without, for example, presenting proof of compliance with the requirements or performing laboratory tests upon entry into Israel.
The Ministry of Industry and Economy has been actively working to remove barriers to adjusting official standards, including facilitating imports from developed countries by reducing laboratory tests during commercial imports and expanding exemption routes. The Bill mentions an amendment that adjusts the import method to accommodate foreign marketing chains entering Israel. It also refers to the need for approval from the Commissioner of Standardization for certain imports.
There’s an expansion of exemption routes, reducing the need for attesting documents during imports. This is particularly relevant for ensuring the legality of imports into Israel, especially from developed countries and Europe. A new approach is proposed for consumer product imports, emphasizing enforcement aspects upon arrival at the warehouse. This approach aims to streamline imports into Israel while ensuring compliance with European Union standards.
Despite gaps in import supervision, there’s a focus on sampling and assessing suspicious shipments. The Bill also discusses the importance of compliance with European Union standards and the proposed changes to facilitate imports.
Several associations and authorities, including those related to industry, commerce, engineering, and consumer protection, are mentioned in the document.
There are technical amendments proposed within the legislation, including adjustments in wording and definitions to align with European Union regulations and standards. The proposed changes aim to reduce bureaucratic barriers, promote competition, and encourage free trade between countries. This includes provisions allowing alternative reliance on official standards in certain cases.The Bill proposes to set the beginning of this law on 1 September 2024. However, it is proposed to authorize the Minister of Economy and Industry, by decree, to postpone the start date for additional periods not exceeding six months each if convinced that the necessary preparations for implementing the provisions of this law, including those related to supervision and enforcement, testing capabilities, or compliance with European regulatory requirements, have not been completed.
Flammability Update July 2024
The document containing regulations has been updated. The key changes are as follows:
For the EEA:
- The reference to GPSD 2001/95/EC will be replaced with a reference to GPSR EU 2023/988 as of December 13, 2024.
- Addition of EN 16779-1 (Children's cot duvets), EN 16779-2 (Children's cot duvet covers), and EN 16780 (Children's cot bumpers).
For Canada:
- Updated legislation CAN/CGSB 4.2 NO. 27.5-2023
To receive the document, or for any questions, please contact Arno Weel.
Corporate Responsability
Do you want to make the sector more sustainable together and comply with the competition rules? ACM is thinking along with you.
Netherlands Authority for Consumers and Markets (ACM) supervises various rules, including competition rules. Fair competition is important so that customers do not pay too much for a product or service, innovation is stimulated, and quality remains high. Collaborations that stand in the way of fair competition are generally not permitted. Read more (in Dutch)
Canada’s New Greenwashing Law Will Impact U.S. Companies’ Climate Marketing
New legislation adopted by the Canadian Parliament on June 20 is positioned to regulate environmental claims and prevent greenwashing in Canada… The amendment addresses claims by businesses relating to “protecting or restoring the environment or mitigating the environmental and ecological causes or effects of climate change.” Those claims must be substantiated in “accordance with internationally recognized methodology.” In other words, if a company says they are climate friendly in a marketing campaign or on their website, they now have to prove it. Read more
Sourcing
European textile and clothing exports continue to slow down
After exceeding their pre-crisis levels in 2022 and then marking time in 2023, European exports of textiles and clothing continued to fall in the first quarter of 2024. Imports, meanwhile, continue to slow, albeit at a less sustained pace than last year, reports Fashionnetwork. Read more
Parisian textile fair Première Vision sighs under Chinese influence
For many years, the Parisian trade fair Première Vision was a pioneer in new fashion. But the biennial textile mecca is losing momentum. The competition on the stock exchange is too great, say the textile entrepreneurs, prompted by the Asian influence. Paris seems to be slowly losing out to Milan, where China is excluded, writes Dutch business newspaper Het Financieele Dagblas. Read more in Dutch (notice you may need a login to read the complete article or read the summary below)
Summary
- Decreased Influence: The importance of Paris fashion fair Première Vision is declining in the fashion industry.
- Chinese Presence: The influence of Chinese textiles at the fair is increasing, while French brands are withdrawing.
- Milan Gaining Popularity: The Milan textile fair, which excludes Chinese participants, is gaining popularity.
- Early Start: Paul Horst, an entrepreneur from Zwolle, regularly drives to Première Vision in Paris, despite finding it less interesting in recent years.
- Strategic Shift: Horst now meets a Tunisian producer due to Tunisia's new EUR.1 certificate, reducing import costs and aligning with EU regulations.
- Risk Management: Horst focuses on risk diversification and flexibility rather than lower production costs in Tunisia.
- International Fair: Première Vision attracts professionals from over forty countries, showcasing textiles for the autumn-winter collections of 2025 and 2026.
- Seasonal Changes: The fair faces challenges with the fading of classic seasons and rescheduling to July, which affects attendance.
- Supplier Competition: Belgian designer Sibilla Vanderlinden notes increased competition from Chinese suppliers, affecting European textile businesses.
- Chinese Suppliers: The presence of Chinese textile brands, such as Nanshan Fashion, is notable, with mixed reactions from participants.
- Innovative Textiles: Korean company AB Industries showcases innovative textiles like collagen-infused fabric and eco-friendly jackets made from fishing nets.
- Visibility Importance: British Millerain emphasizes the importance of visibility, benefiting from trends like cowboy chic.
- French Absence: French luxury brands are absent from the fair, with a shift towards the Milanese fair, Milano Unica, which is growing in popularity and excludes Chinese exhibitors.
- Declining Attendance: Once a major event, Première Vision has seen a significant drop in exhibitors and visitors, now focusing more on inclusivity and eco-innovation.
Quality & Sizing
True Fit leverages generative AI to help online shoppers find clothes that fit
True Fit, the AI-powered size-and-fit personalization tool, has offered its size recommendation solution to thousands of retailers for nearly 20 years. Now, the company is venturing into the generative AI space with “Fit Hub,” a new tool that aims to improve the way online shoppers find clothing that fits their body type.Sizing issues continue to be one of the main sources of friction among online consumers, with the average return rate for e-commerce at 17.6%. Many customers try to avoid returns by carefully examining product detail pages for size charts, descriptions, and customer reviews to gauge how the clothing will fit, writes Techcrunch. Read more