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Circular Update nr. 1, 2024

News

  • European Parliament ‘Patches Up Loopholes’ in EU Textile EPR Proposal 
  • MEPs vote to adopt EPR proposals for textiles
  • Saxell and Birla cellulose revolutionize textile recycling at PV Paris 
  • Ketendoorbraakproject moet textielketen circulair maken 
  • Bianca Streng (MVO NL): ‘Overheid en kledingindustrie moeten investeren in écht circulair polyester’ 
  • ‘Extended Producer Responsibility’ Textile Recycling Schemes Gain Traction Globally 
  • Dutch Circular Textile Valley voor een circulaire economie
  • YKK eliminates key barrier to textile-to-textile recycling 
  • Norway : Important step towards producer responsibility for textiles 
  • What We Can Learn From Renewcell’s Financial Struggles
  • "Van sportkleding kun je sportkleding maken"


European Parliament ‘Patches Up Loopholes’ in EU Textile EPR Proposal 
It was easy to miss amid the sturm and drang over Germany’s supply chain legislation about-face this week, but the European Union is closer to agreeing on how clothing, footwear and textile producers should be held accountable for the 12.6 million metric tons of waste they generate in the bloc every year.On Wednesday, the European Parliament’s environmental committee adopted its position on the European Commission’s proposed revision of the waste framework directive with 72 votes in favor, none against and three abstentions. Read more (notice you may need a login to read the complete article or read the summary below).

Summary

  • The European Union generates 12.6 million metric tons of textile waste annually.
  • The European Parliament's environmental committee adopted new rules on waste management with 72 votes in favor.
  • Member states are required to establish extended producer responsibility (EPR) schemes within 18 months of the directive.
  • Producers of clothing, footwear, and textiles must cover the cost of collection, sorting, and recycling of their products.
  • Separate collection of textile products for reuse, preparation for reuse, and recycling must be ensured by January.
  • Fees for EPR schemes should be "eco-modulated" based on the weight and quantity of products.
  • Textile waste management should follow a five-step waste hierarchy, prioritizing prevention over disposal.
  • Compromises include addressing loopholes, incorporating non-household products like carpets and mattresses.
  • The EU seeks a 2032 textile waste reduction target based on an assessment by June 2023.
  • The Parliament acknowledges the impact of textile waste on developing countries' waste management systems.
  • Microplastics from synthetic textiles are highlighted as a concern, with digital product passports suggested for traceability.
  • Civil society organizations express concern over the lack of specific targets and the postponement of needed measures.
  • The Parliament plans to vote on its position during the March plenary session, followed by the new Parliament after the June election.

MEPs vote to adopt EPR proposals for textiles 
MEPs in the European Parliament's influential Environment Committee have today adopted proposals to better prevent and reduce textile waste across the European Union (EU).They backed the EU's proposed Waste Framework Directive, which includes an extended producer responsibility (EPR) scheme for textiles, with 72 votes in favour, none against and three abstentions, writes Eco-textile News. Read more (notice you may need a login to read the complete article or read the summary below)

Summary
The European Parliament (MEPs) have adopted EPR rules, requiring companies to pay for the collection, sorting, and recycling of textile-based products. The directive, which covers all textile products, will come into force on 1st January 2025. The directive also aims to increase binding waste reduction targets, including for non-household products, carpets, mattresses, and online sales. The RREUSE network welcomed the vote, stating it would strengthen the role of social enterprises in EPR schemes. However, the Zero Waste Europe coalition criticized the proposal for not addressing waste textile management and prevention targets. The Waste Framework Directive is set to go to a full plenary session of the European Parliament next month.

Saxell and Birla cellulose revolutionize textile recycling at PV Paris 
SaXcell, a pioneering textile recycling innovator, showcased its fabric and garment samples at PV Paris alongside Birla Cellulose, a major player in man-made cellulosic fiber manufacturing. This collaboration, displayed from February 6 to 8, highlights their joint effort in producing recycled man-made cellulosic fibers, writes FashionatingWorld. Read more>>

Ketendoorbraakproject moet textielketen circulair maken 
150 textielondernemers en -organisaties gaan in het project 'Circulair textiel' samen de uitdaging aan om te textielketen circulair te maken. Hergebruik en vezel-tot-vezelrecycling staan daarbij centraal.Na eerdere ketendoorbraakprojecten op het gebied van hergebruik van staal in de bouw, circulair plaatmateriaal en circulaire vloeren heeft het Versnellingshuis Nederland circulair! nu een vierde ketendoorbraakproject goedgekeurd, voor circulair textiel. Dit project is volgens het versnellingshuis vooral voor innovatieve textielbedrijven, inzamelaars, verwerkers, kringloopbedrijven en repaircafé’s. Samen zullen zij in het project uitdagingen aangaan rond hergebruik van mode, interieur, tapijt en textiel. De bedoeling is om materialen te besparen, minder CO2 uit te stoten en afval te vermijden, door hernieuwbare, duurzame grondstoffen te gebruiken. Op die manier moeten de deelnemende partijen een voorbeeld zijn voor andere ondernemers in de textielsector. Het project begint op 1 mei 2024 beginnen en zal drie jaar lopen. Het Versnellingshuis is nog op zoek naar een regisseur om de ketenregie van het project op zich te nemen.

Bianca Streng (MVO NL): ‘Overheid en kledingindustrie moeten investeren in écht circulair polyester’ 
Kledingbedrijven maken mooie sier met ‘duurzaam’ textiel, gemaakt van gerecyclede petflessen (rpet). Het textiel wordt er weliswaar van gemaakt, maar wordt na gebruik alsnog op de afvalhoop gegooid. Circulair is dat dus nauwelijks. De trend van gerecycled plastic uit petflessen is inmiddels zo lang gaande dat er vanuit kledingmerken en -producenten amper nog vraag is naar gerecycled polyester afkomstig van afgedankt textiel. Geen wonder dat ‘circulaire economie’ in de Nieuwe Economie Index, een meetinstrument voor de duurzaamheid van de economie, dit jaar zelfs gedaald is, schrijft Duurzaam Ondernemen. Lees meer>>

‘Extended Producer Responsibility’ Textile Recycling Schemes Gain Traction Globally 
With 8 to 10 percent of greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions stemming from the apparel and footwear sector, the industry’s contributions to the growing threat of climate change are fast coming under scrutiny. But its actions to remediate the pileup of waste aren’t keeping pace with the problem. That is likely to change over the course of the coming years as Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) programs gain traction across the globe, according to British climate action non-profit Waste and Resources Action Program (WRAP), reports Sourcing Journal. Read more (notice you may need a login to read the complete article or read the summary below).

Summary
Global Impact of Textile Industry:

  • 8-10% of greenhouse gas emissions come from the apparel and footwear sector.
  • Industry's waste management efforts lag behind the growing problem.

Shift Towards Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR):

  • Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) programs gaining global traction.
  • EPRs impose recycling costs on product producers, including manufacturers and vendors.

EU Leading with Sustainable Textiles Strategy:

  • The EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles prompts a mandatory textiles EPR system by 2025.
  • Producers responsible for collecting textile waste, reducing landfill impact.

France's Successful Textiles EPR Program:

  • France has an active textiles EPR program since 2008.
  •  "Eco-modulated" EPR fees encourage sustainable product design and recycling.

Global Expansion of Textiles EPR Programs:

  • Netherlands and Hungary have active EPR programs; obligations start in 2025.
  • Sweden, Spain, Australia (voluntary), Bulgaria, Italy, Norway, Chile, UK, and California planning or considering textile EPR legislation.

Sustainability Legislation Driving Change:

  • Implementation of new sustainability legislation globally pushing markets to address textile waste.
  • Imperative to tackle textile waste with emerging Textiles EPR systems worldwide.

Dutch Circular Textile Valley voor een circulaire economie
Om draagvlak te creëren voor een circulaire transitie binnen de kleding- en textielbranche, is de Dutch Circular Textile Valley (DCTV) in het leven geroepen. Deze organisatie moet kleinschalige initiatieven voor circulair textiel bundelen met als uiteindelijk doel: het sluiten van de vezelkringloop. Op regionaal niveau werken bedrijven en organisaties al samen binnen vier zogeheten DCTV-hubs. Een volgende stap is hun activiteiten bundelen en opschalen naar landelijk niveau, schrijft Afval circulair. Lees meer>>

YKK eliminates key barrier to textile-to-textile recycling 
Last week the company launched DynaPel, a water-repellant zipper featuring Green Theme Technologies’ Empel solution. Designed to be compatible with garment recycling systems, DynaPel uses Empel instead of the standard PU film to achieve its water repellency. By eliminating the PU film, YKK removes one barrier of textile-to-textile recycling of performance apparel, reports Sourcing Journal. Read more (notice you may need a login to read the complete article or read the summary below).

Summary

  • YKK Corporation launched DynaPel, a water-repellant zipper using Green Theme Technologies’ Empel solution for circularity.
  • DynaPel eliminates the standard PU film, making it compatible with textile-to-textile recycling of performance apparel.
  • Conventional recycling struggles with PU zippers, leading to unnecessary waste; DynaPel addresses this issue.
  • Empel technology in DynaPel utilizes advanced green chemistry without PFAS, unlike some of the company's previous waterproof products.
  • YKK's sustainability efforts include a 26% increase in sustainable materials in fastening products and a 176% YoY increase in unit sales for the Natulon recycled zipper series.
  • YKK aims to boost the use of sustainable materials by 41% in fiscal 2023 as part of its growing roster of sustainable solutions.
  • The sustainability report highlights YKK's achievements, including a 525-ton reduction in landfill waste and a target of 90% waste resource conversion rate by 2025.
  • YKK reduced water intake by 1.3 million tons, improved chemical management, and renewed its OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certification.

Norway: Important step towards producer responsibility for textiles 
The Ministry of Climate and Environment set up 29. September 2022 appointed a working group with the task of preparing proposals for how a producer responsibility scheme for textiles can be organised in Norway. Today, the working group presents its final report to Minister of Climate and Environment, Espen Barth Eide. Virke has chaired the working group.We have a small production, but a high consumption of textiles in Norway. Norwegian imports of textiles and footwear correspond to an average of 19.3 kg per capita. It is estimated that around half of our used textiles end up in the residual waste and are incinerated. Less than one per cent of collected used textiles are reused in Norway, most of which are exported."Today's production, consumption and waste management of textiles must become more sustainable and circular. The Government will therefore introduce a producer responsibility scheme for textiles that can contribute to waste reduction and increased reuse and material recycling, says Minister of Climate and Environment Espen Barth Eide.

"We find that there is a great commitment among the business community and social actors to reduce the climate and environmental footprint of the textile industry, and they have today provided us with a lot of good input. This is an important environmental issue," says Eide.The working group has consisted of representatives from Virke (leader), NHO, Avfall Norway, Samfunnsbedriftene, Fretex, Framtiden i vre hender and Naturvernforbundet. The Norwegian Environment Agency has participated as an observer. In addition, the working group has received input from a reference group consisting of representatives from manufacturers, the textile industry, academia, industry and the municipal sector.

Textile consumption has the fourth highest impact on the environment and climate in Europe, after food, housing and mobility.This summer, the European Commission also proposed harmonised and expanded producer responsibility for textiles in the EU/EEA. The European Commission proposes that how much producers should pay in remuneration be adjusted based on how environmentally friendly the textiles are (so-called ecomodulation). The remuneration will finance investments in separate collection and sorting, as well as increase capacity for reuse and material recycling."We will now read the proposal thoroughly and see the recommendations from the working group in relation to the European Commission's proposal for a producer responsibility scheme for textiles," says Eide.

What We Can Learn From Renewcell’s Financial Struggles
Ordinarily, I subscribe to the belief that in sustainability discussions, opinions are redundant; we should lean on the science. But, yesterday a conflation of both was enlisted in an outcry for answers as to why Renewcell, fashion’s leading textile-to-textile recycling technology, had filed for bankruptcy. The science (and resulting technology) is solid; the route to profitability less so. And it’s the latter that really matters, writes Forbes. Read more>>

"Van sportkleding kun je sportkleding maken"
Een enorme hoeveelheid Nederlandse sportkleding komt al na kort gebruik bij het restafval terecht. Een verspilling van grondstoffen en slecht voor het milieu, vindt circulair ondernemer Josse Kunst van CuRe Technology. “Het gaat niet alleen om techniek, maar ook om betrokkenheid van sporters”, schrijft Het Versnellingshuis. Lees meer>>

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